Tiny, tough, and impossibly slow-growing — the petite powerhouse of nano aquascaping. Anubias nana 'Petite' care is about as low-maintenance as aquarium plants get: this dwarf rhizome plant thrives in low light, needs no CO2, attaches to wood and rock instead of substrate, and grows so slowly you'll measure progress in months. It's the plant for shaded corners, nano tanks, and aquascapers who value permanence.
This guide covers the rhizome rule (the one thing you must not do), attaching techniques, light and algae management, propagation by rhizome division, and troubleshooting its slow-paced problems.
Quick Care Reference
| Parameter | Requirement |
|---|---|
| Light | Low (20–40 PAR) |
| CO2 | Not required |
| Growth rate | Very slow |
| Placement | Foreground to midground (on hardscape) |
| Difficulty | Very easy |
| Temperature | 68–82°F (20–28°C) |
| pH | 5.5–8.5 |
| Height | 1–3 inches (2–8 cm) |
Meet the Petite
Anubias nana 'Petite' is a dwarf cultivar of Anubias barteri var. nana — itself already small — selected for even tinier leaves, often under an inch long. Where standard Anubias suits midground wood, the Petite version details nano hardscape: speckling branch tips, edging stone seams, carpeting crevices with miniature dark-green foliage.
Like all Anubias, it's an epiphyte — in nature it grows attached to rocks and wood in shady African streams, not rooted in substrate. This defines its entire care: attach it, shade it, and leave it alone. Its thick, waxy leaves resist herbivorous fish that shred softer plants, making it one of the few plants suitable for tanks with goldfish, cichlids, or large plecos.
The Rhizome Rule (Read This First)
Anubias grows from a horizontal rhizome — the thick green stem from which leaves sprout upward and roots dangle downward. Never bury the rhizome in substrate. A buried rhizome rots, and a rotted rhizome kills the plant. This is the single most important fact in Anubias care, and violating it is the cause of most Anubias deaths.
Instead, attach the plant to hardscape: driftwood, rocks, or decorations. The dangling roots will eventually grip the surface on their own. You can also wedge it into crevices or let it sit on top of the substrate with the rhizome exposed — just never buried.
Attaching Techniques
- Cyanoacrylate super glue (gel) — the modern standard. Dab gel glue on the rhizome or roots, press to the hardscape for 30 seconds. Aquarium-safe once cured, instant hold. Use sparingly; a little goes far.
- Cotton thread or fishing line — tie the rhizome gently to wood or rock. The thread rots or can be removed once roots grip (4–8 weeks). Don't tie so tight you crush the rhizome.
- Wedge into crevices — push the plant into natural cracks in wood or between stones. Zero materials needed, and it looks the most natural.
- Rubber bands — quick and temporary; remove once attached to avoid constricting growth.
Position Petite on the shaded sides of hardscape or under overhangs — it prefers indirect light and its slow leaves algae-spot quickly under direct blast. In nano tanks, a few Petite rosettes on a central stone create an instant aged, natural look.
Petite goes on wood/rock; glue is the cleanest attaching method covered: a dab of Seachem Flourish Glue on hardscape.
Light and Algae Management
Low light — 20–40 PAR — is ideal. Anubias evolved for shade, and the Petite's tiny, slow-growing leaves are particularly algae-prone under strong light. Green spot algae and brush algae colonize leaves that take months to replace, so prevention is everything:
- Place it in shade: under taller plants, on the shadow side of wood, beneath overhangs.
- Keep the photoperiod at 6–8 hours if Anubias dominates the scape.
- Maintain a cleanup crew — nerite snails and otocinclus are excellent on Anubias leaves; amano shrimp help too.
- For badly algae-coated leaves, a brief diluted hydrogen peroxide dip or gentle manual cleaning works; remove leaves that are beyond saving.
If your tank runs high light for other plants, Petite still works — just tuck it into the shadows those plants cast. It's the classic understory plant, thriving in the shade of the showpieces.
CO2, Fertilizer, and Water
CO2 is unnecessary — Petite grows fine without it, and CO2 barely speeds its glacial pace. Fertilizer needs are minimal: its slow metabolism uses little. In stocked tanks, fish waste suffices; in sparse tanks, light comprehensive liquid dosing helps. Avoid heavy dosing — excess nutrients with slow uptake just feeds algae on its leaves.
Water parameters are flexible: pH 5.5–8.5, soft to hard, 68–82°F. Stability matters more than values. It's also one of the few plants that tolerates the hard, alkaline water of African cichlid tanks — a rare bridge between the planted and cichlid worlds.
Nano tanks need micro-dosing; liquid fert at half dose: Seachem Flourish dosed lightly.
Growth and Propagation
Growth is very slow — a new leaf every few weeks, measurable size increase over months. This is a feature: Petite holds aquascape compositions unchanged for a year or more, making it ideal for stable, long-term layouts. Don't expect it to fill space; buy the coverage you want from the start.
Propagation is by rhizome division: once the rhizome has 6+ leaves, cut it with a clean blade between leaf clusters, ensuring each section has several leaves and roots. Attach the divisions as new plants. Divisions establish slowly — allow weeks before judging success. A single healthy rhizome becomes several plants over a year or two.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Rhizome rot (mushy, brown rhizome)
Caused by burying the rhizome, or occasionally by damage during handling. Cut away all mushy tissue back to firm green rhizome with a sterile blade — be aggressive; rot spreads. Reattach the healthy portion. Prevention is just the rhizome rule: never buried, never crushed by ties.
Yellowing leaves
Old leaves naturally yellow and die — remove them at the rhizome. Widespread yellowing suggests nutrient deficiency (nitrogen or iron) or the rhizome struggling; check attachment and water quality. New leaves emerging yellow points to iron deficiency.
Algae-covered leaves
The Petite's curse — slow leaves under too much light. Move to shade, reduce photoperiod, add algae eaters, and manually clean or remove worst leaves. Long-term, the fix is placement: Petite belongs in shadows, not spotlights.
Holes in leaves
Potassium deficiency causes pinholes; hungry plecos or snails cause ragged damage. Supplement potassium if deficiency is suspected. Note that even "plant-safe" plecos may rasp Anubias when hungry — feed them adequately.
No growth for months
Normal. Seriously — Anubias nana 'Petite' can sit apparently unchanged for months, especially after the stress of purchase and reattachment. As long as the rhizome is firm and green and leaves aren't deteriorating, it's alive and will eventually grow. Judge in seasons, not weeks.
Design Roles
Petite is a detail plant: use it to age hardscape, soften stone edges, fill branch crotches, and create scale in nano tanks. A few rosettes transform bare wood into something that looks established. It combines beautifully with Bolbitis and Java fern for a full epiphyte composition — an entire aquascape with nothing planted in the substrate.
It's also the go-to for low-tech nano tanks: a 5-gallon with Petite on wood, Cryptocoryne wendtii in the substrate, and a moss accent is a complete, nearly maintenance-free aquascape.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I plant Anubias nana 'Petite' in substrate?
Only with the rhizome fully exposed above the substrate — roots may go in, rhizome must stay out. Buried rhizomes rot. Safest practice: attach it to hardscape (wood, rock) with glue, thread, or wedging. This is the number one rule of Anubias care.
Why is it growing so slowly?
That's its nature — a new leaf every few weeks is normal. Anubias are among the slowest aquarium plants. Slow growth means low maintenance and long-lived compositions, but it also means buying the coverage you want upfront rather than waiting for spread. Firm green rhizome plus intact leaves equals healthy, however slow.
How much light does it need?
Low light — 20–40 PAR. It evolved for shady streams and its slow leaves algae-spot under strong light. In high-tech tanks, place it in the shade of taller plants or hardscape. If it's your main plant, a 6–8 hour photoperiod keeps algae at bay.
How do I propagate Anubias nana 'Petite'?
Divide the rhizome: cut between leaf clusters with a clean blade, ensuring each piece has several leaves and roots, then attach divisions to hardscape. Wait until the parent rhizome has 6+ leaves before dividing. Divisions are slow to establish — allow weeks.
Why are the leaves turning yellow?
Old-leaf yellowing is natural aging — remove spent leaves at the rhizome. Widespread yellowing indicates nutrient deficiency or rhizome stress; check that the rhizome isn't buried or rotting, and ensure some fertilization reaches it. New yellow leaves specifically suggest iron deficiency.
Is it safe with goldfish and cichlids?
Among the safest. Its thick, waxy, bitter-tasting leaves resist most herbivorous fish that destroy softer plants. Goldfish, African cichlids, and large plecos generally leave it alone. Attach it firmly — boisterous fish can dislodge loosely placed rhizomes even if they don't eat them.
Bringing It All Together
Anubias nana 'Petite' is the patient aquascaper's plant: tiny, tough, shade-loving, and nearly immortal when its one rule is respected. Glue it to wood, tuck it into shadows, and forget about it — it will outlast nearly every other plant in your tank, holding its miniature composition steady while faster plants come and go. In a hobby that rewards speed, Petite rewards permanence.